Roll in for beer at Sergio's

Now put down the cursor and move your digital map to the far-east end of the metropolitan area to discover another of the region's most memorable temples of beer, housed in what some might consider a most unlikely venue.

A few blocks to the west of downtown Shelbyville on U.S. 60, a blue metal building that looks a great deal like a country gasoline station or truckstop is home to Sergio’s World Beers.

In an exurban county that only recently began permitting alcohol sales, Brazilian expatriate Sergio Ribenboim, a world-class beer geek who speaks perfect English - presides over a simple dining room and friendly bar that, at last count, offered 726 beers from 49 countries, including 155 beers from Belgium, 63 from Germany, 55 from England and 280 from the USA. That was a couple months ago; I would be amazed if Ribenboim hasn’t expanded the list by now.

Sky-blue walls are almost hidden behind a museum-quality display of auto license plates (at least one from every state in the union); hundreds of beer-tap handles; and at least 100 full-size flags of many nations, hanging on the walls and stretched across the ceiling.

Pass through the large dining room with its heavy trestle tables, if you prefer, to reach the smaller room beer bar, where all 700 beers are on display... not to mention a smaller selection of beers on tap.

Be assured that the facilities are clean and well-kept; it’s just a little bit, um, idiosyncratic? OK, let’s call it wacky.

Shelby County's strict liquor laws require that Sergio’s sell something to eat with every beer: To retain the beer license, 70 percent of the restaurant’s sales must be in food. But the menu makes this easy, with dishes priced as low as $1 for a pretzel or $2 for chips and dip.

The menu is mostly Mexican...and pretty good Mexican at that. Just for variety, a few Italian, Greek and American dishes are included as well, plus the specialty of the house, a Philly cheese steak. Virtually every item is under $12 and most go for $10 or less.

Every table gets a big bowl of crisp fried tortilla triangles with thick hot salsa in a flask and dishes of fine homemade pico de gallo.

Beers come out in pint glasses on neat coasters. Good food, good beer and friendly service offer three good reasons to make the trip to Shelbyville.